Axim & Lou Moon Lodge

The last few days in Busua had been perfect, we’d had a small little hut right next to the beach and had spent our days lounging on the beach watching the world go by. Having only a week to go before we flew home from Accra we’d decided to head off toward Axim which is close to the Cote D’Ivoire border as we’d read about a place to stay which, if it lived up to the hype, sounded spectacular. We’d been reading through our Bradt guide when we stumbled upon this in the ‘places to stay’ section.

Lou Moon Lodge; This very special resort occupies what is possibly the most perfect beach spot in Ghana – a picturesque bay bisected by an isthmus, with rocks & wavy waters on one side, & a turquoise-looking glass sea on the other. Accommodation ranges from a private double in the hill side cottage to an executive suite, or an AC chalet on the isthmus – which becomes an island when the tide comes in – each with glass walls on 2 sides so you wake up looking out onto the sea.

Needless to say we were instantly very keen on trying to afford a night at Lou Moon. The downside was that as we were on a backpacker’s budget we knew it would far exceed our usual accommodation allowance at €150 a night for one of the island chalets. Wanting to know more about the place we’d looked it up on the internet, the pictures lived up to the words, it looked fantastic, I said to Gen, “we have to stay here, even if it does break the bank” after much discussion we agreed that although we had been roughing it for the last few weeks and money was running thin, it looked worth splashing out on… how many opportunities do you get to sleep in a luxury chalet on a private island? What really swung it for us was when we looked into the rates further, we noticed that because of it being off season they offered a 40% discount. It was a no brainer; we emailed straight away and got on with our reservation. We dealt with a lovely bloke called Isaac Brew who could not have been more helpful if he had tried and even though we couldn’t pay in advance or in Euro’s as requested, he said that it wouldn’t be a problem to pay in Ghanaian Cedi on our departure.

So, we were booked and we were really looking forward to it. We packed up and hopped on the nearest tro-tro headed to Axim. Typically, it was absolutely pouring down with rain when we arrived in Axim, but it hadn’t put much of a dampener on our spirits until we started trying to arrange a taxi to Lou Moon, because it was so wet not many of the drivers wanted to take us, apparently the road was very bad and they weren’t prepared to go. As per usual, a bit of danger money and they were all suddenly up for it and we were in a taxi and headed to the lodge. At first I couldn’t see what all the fuss was about and then the road got worse, until a point where if you were in your own car you’d just look at the road and see it as impassable. Nevertheless our driver powered on and guided the car expertly around the bumps, holes and sheer drops until we made it to a rather wet, steep hill. We stopped at the bottom, reversed a bit and then shot up it at 50mph, 40mph, 20mph, 5mph until we were just stationary half way up with the wheels spinning like crazy. I offered to get out and push but the driver had other ideas, he’d obviously done this before and did not need help from a foreigner! He slowly rode the brakes as we rolled back down the hill to the bottom, turned the car around and then proceeded to reverse up this steep slippy hill, I didn’t think it would work, but I was proved wrong, we made it to the top, he looked over his shoulder at me and gave me a big grin and a wink.. I smiled back and nodded as though to say, fair play mate… you, are a top boy!

We arrived at Lou Moon to be greeted by Isaac himself, I’d barely got out of the car before he’d taken Gen’s backpack and whisked her off out of the rain under his umbrella. We collected our key and were shown to our chalet. It was every bit as impressive as it looked on the internet, the view, even on a wet and windy day was spectacular, the bed had crisp white cotton sheets on, the bathroom shower had hot water and there was a loo with a view! We spent all afternoon having hot showers and enjoying the feeling of being truly clean before heading over to the mainland area where the restaurant was. The open sided restaurant was equally as impressive as the rest of the place and we sat down at a lovely table looking out onto the bay whilst pondering what to eat. As we were trying to decide what to eat the Togolese head chef came over to explain further what was on offer, it all sounded delicious, I asked what he would have had, he said the fish…. Two of those then please!

Dinner was delicious and the bed was the comfiest I’d slept on in weeks and the best Gen had slept on in 7 months of being in West Africa. We spent two fantastic days at Lou Moon Lodge relaxing on the beach, eating the chef’s fantastic food and chatting with the Belgian owner. When the time came to leave we just wanted to go home as we knew the next few days weren’t going to be a patch on our time at Lou Moon. But, we had to leave and so we packed our bags and headed back down the bumpy dirt track to Axim, only to realise half way to Axim that we still had the room key, Oops! Soon though, we were back at the tro-tro park waiting around for it to fill up before heading east back along the coast to Takoradi so that we could head on from there to Cape Coast which would be the final stop before making back to Accra and flying home!

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