Neither of us slept all that well last night, we were still on edge from the thought that we came a little too close to death I think. Once the sun had risen we got up, there was still no water in Tamale so still covered in a wonderful layer of sun cream, mosquito repellent and dust we headed out to try to buy a bus ticket to get us the hell out of here. We’d read in the Bradt Guide that you had to book the day before for the bus to Mole National Park, we asked the girls on reception and they agreed, definitely need to book the day before. Wonderful, it looked like we might have to stay in this arid hole for another 24 hours with no running water – meaning no shower and no ability to flush the toilet!! We figured it was worth going to see if we could get tickets for that afternoon anyway and so got a cab to the bus station. After a short discussion a man took some money from me and told me to return that afternoon to collect my ticket. I wanted to believe him, so I did, we left the bus station assuming that we’d bought tickets but at the same time, not counting on it!
By now it was time to get some food, we realised that we’d eaten nothing but a few sweets I had in my backpack since we left Kara in Togo the day before and were absolutely hank marvin. The first few places we tried were closed, it seemed as though our trip was taking a rather sharp U-turn and going from being a great holiday to being the shittest holiday ever! As with everything we persevered and found ourselves a rather good Indian restaurant and settled down for some food. A few hours later we headed back to the bus station, where was that chap from earlier?
We needn’t have been worried, he waved me over into his office, tore off a few tickets and we were on. Thank god, we were getting out of this place, it wasn’t a bad town at all, it was just that it was ridiculously hot and dusty, that combined with the fact we’d not showered in 24 hours and nearly died the night before we weren’t in the mood for it, we just wanted a nice little hotel with running water and food. That was seemingly too much to ask for in Tamale. We boarded the bus and amazingly it set off on time (something unheard of in Africa). All was going well until we left the tarmac and hit the dirt roads, we were hitting big pot holes, sliding around corners and dodging other car accidents on the side of the road, I’d lost the sensation in my right knee again, Gen was squeezing hard again. After everything that had happened the night before it was pretty unnerving at times, I felt safer, I’m not sure she did.
Just as it was going dark we arrived at the gates to Mole National Park, thankfully there would be no more night time bus journeys today. We rolled up to the Mole Motel and went to sort out a room, It was expensive but there was one redeeming feature, they had running water! I can’t remember another time when in my life where I’ve been so appreciative of a bitterly cold shower, my lovely shade of orange washed away down the plug hole and I no longer looked like someone with a tan like that lot out of The Only Way Is Essex, finally I was clean again.. well for a few minutes. We’d noticed a significant change in temperature since leaving Togo, the minute you got out of the shower you were sweating again. There was only one thing for it, I tried to lower my core temperature with ice cold beers… It didn’t work but I had fun trying.