Yeah, can you believe it, it is the 22nd of December and i am learning to surf? I’d certainly not be doing that if i was at home! We all headed to the beach to check out the conditions (and more importantly see how warm the water was!) when the surfing instructor suggested that it was a little cold and so everyone opted for the wetsuits. I actually thought it was pretty warm so i declined the offer of a wetsuit and opted for the boardshorts and rashies look. They thought i was crazy until i explained that i was English and to me their cold tap water was warm. Turned out that it was plenty warm enough and i was even hot in my shorts and shirt.
After learning the general technique of how to stand up, our instructer Seano just got bored and said “do you guys really give a shit about techniques or would you rather just give it a go and i’ll show you as we go along?” At which point we all stood up grabbed our boards and headed for the sea. After paddling out a little way it was time to give it a shot. I turned my board around waited for a big wave, paddled like crazy until i was on top of it then…. wooosh i was underwater with a board yanking at my foot. I turned around and headed back out, tried it again and the same thing happened. Ever the perfectionist (but terribly impatient) i kept going until on my fifth attempt… boom, there i was stood up, just as i realised this, however…. splash. Dave’s back in the water getting beaten by the waves. haha
This continued for about an hour and a half until i began to get my timing sorted out and started to stand at just the right time, not too early as i had apparently been doing up till then. As the session came to an end i was begining to stand more often but was so tired that i couldn’t be bothered paddling out everytime i got back to the beach, so i was quite happy to call it a day.
After a short drive home listening to some tunes and laughing at eachothers mishaps, we got back to Byron. Tomorrow i have another lesson and i’m hoping it will go as well as todays!